Friday, May 6, 2022

Azerbaijan Rechallenge (3-5 May 2022)

at Heydar Aliyev Park
15 years ago, my entry was rejected and I got the biggest trauma in my traveling history, getting stuck in Baku airport since the authority didn't give on arrival visa to Azerbaijan for Indonesian citizen that time. My passport was detained and I needed to stay in the airport for 3 days and 2 nights.

This time, my first traveling after the corona pandemic, even though it is now clear that Azerbaijan gave visa online or on-arrival to Indonesian, I felt a bit nervous about the entry requirements for COVID-19. The first trouble was in Doha airport, Qatar Airways held issuing my boarding pass due my vaccine certificate didn't have the QR code. Finally they allowed me to board after they confirmed with Baku airport after I waited in Doha airport for 2 hours.

I was really happy passing the immigration in Baku airport, finally I said. New addition to my visited country list I haven't updated.

 First impression to Baku was jaw-dropping. Clean, rich and brand new city. The road from the airport to the city, displayed some cheerful colorful illumination at night. The modern architecture was fabulous, while the old buildings dated back to the 18th century were grand. They are brave to show-off with modern architectural uniqueness.

Nizami Street
 

First thing in the morning, I strolled off Nizami Street, a beautiful pedestrian heaven shopping lane with grand tile and European classic building both sides. Met my first local Couchsurfer, Jamal and walked all the way to Sea Boulevard where I could feel the breeze of Caspian Sea, which it was a lake that pumping up oil to make the country rich. The Sea Boulevard also featured Mini Venice and Carpet Museum. Would like to enter Museum in the next opportunity.

Flame Towers from Sea Boulevard

 

Flame Towers from Highland Park

After taking a rest in my room, my second local Couchsurfer, Amrah, with his car took me to Highland Park with the nice view of the city and Flame Towers. We walked the Martyr's Lane to the tower with eternal flame which was off that day. Amrah showed me the White City, a new luxury residential area, another show-off of rich Azerbaijan. Heydar Aliyev Center might be the most popular spot in Azerbaijan due to its architecture. Took some night photos there.

Heydar Aliyev Centre at night
 

On my second day, due to my stomachache, I took a slow day, and walked alone to the Old City. Paid AZN 15 to enter the Shirvansan Palace, which I don't think it's worth the money. In the afternoon, I met with my third local couchsurfer in this trip, Maharram, who took me Baku Book Center, with pretty and spacious interior and dinner Azerbaijan traditional food in the Old City.

Yashil Bazaar

 

On my last day, since I got better from my stomachache, I visited many places, started with Yashil Bazaar, where I took a lot of pictures for spices, vegetables, fruits and fish. Took a lot more pictures in Heydar Aliyev Center. Paid AZN 15 to enter and it's worth it. A lot to see inside, the permanent art installation and exhibitions, including dolls (my favorite), music instrument, history and miniatures of buildings in Azerbaijan. One object of Japanese artist, Kusama Yayoi was also displayed.

Heydar Aliyev Center inside

 

After visiting a beautiful mosque, Taza Pir Mosque, I tried Azerbaijani hamam at Aga Mikayil Hamami (entrance AZN 10, scrub AZN 15, massage AZN 20). Before heading back to the airport, with Maharram, we visited the extravaganza Heydar Mosque, the illumination was jaw-dropping.

Heydar Mosque
Heydar Mosque
 

My favorites in this trip:
1. Meeting the friendly locals through Couchsurfing.
2. The view of the city and Flame Tower at Upland Hill
3. Heydar Mosque at night

I wish I could do day trips outside Baku.


Review and Tips

Accommodation
1883 Boutique Hotel, booked in Booking.com for AZN 213 for 3 nights.
What I like:
- Location was good, with a lot of shops and not far from Nizami Street. Can walk to the Old City (about 20 minutes).
- They can arrange airport transfer for USD 15 or AZN 25 plus AZN 3 for airport entry (Uber/Bolt taxi cost AZN 13).
- They can arrange PCR Test in the hotel for AZN 35. Their printer was only black and white and thin. We can print in printing shops though.
- Their response to questions after booking was quick and informative.
What I don't like:
- In actual, it was mainly attended by Indian staff named Shaker who did okay, but no passion to show local hospitality. Staying in small hotel with capacity about 10 rooms, I expected more friendly interaction with local owner. The place was more Indian flavor than Azerbaijani.
- The hot shower took long, about 10 minutes to finally come out.
- The noise from the street outside at night.
- The corridor smell Indian spice, and the bathroom smell drainage.
- The breakfast was dull and same everyday.

Food
- Bir Iki Donner Shop
A local chain for shawarma or donner. A bit expensive that local shops but with better quality. There is one in Sea Mall food court.
- Qaynana Restaurant
https://goo.gl/maps/do97EM3jfcadHbDk6
Inside the old city. Had traditional noodle soup (Arishta) which was okay. A bit in higher side in price. There was live singing at night.
- Caravan Baku
https://goo.gl/maps/guF3vVgPnAUekjrS8
In Nizami Street and touristic place, but I ordered only Dushbara paid AZN 5 only. Nice bread was provided for free.
- Arishta
https://goo.gl/maps/4fTUKCCz6rL5Li8v6
Recommended by my local Couchsurfer. Ordered Dovga (yoghurt soup) and Piti.
- List of Azerbaijani soups and stew: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Azerbaijani_soups_and_stews

Dushbara, tiny dumplings


Tranportation
- Bus
Using Baku Card, AZN 0.30, easy to use. Google Map direction can be used, but some route not updated.
- Metro
Using Baku Card, AZN 0.30. Be careful at 28 May Station, at the same platform run alternatively Red Line and Green Line trains.
- Airport Shuttle
As per their website time table, running 24 hours, waited for the bus departing 00:00 at 28 May Station but the bus didn't show up.

SIM Card
I bought Azercell in their official shop on Nizami Street (3GB for AZN 16, 6GB for AZN 19, plus AZN 1 for local call). When I tried to buy in the airport, somehow they refused since they could not scan my passport.

Reference Blog
https://www.bucketlistly.blog/posts/things-to-do-in-baku-azerbaijan
https://www.thecrazytourist.com/15-best-places-visit-azerbaijan/

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